With its polished hardwood interior and exclusively double-digit prices, McGrath’s looks like a potential high-class or special occasion favorite, but the fair, somewhat slow service, understandable in most places where fine cuisine is produced, in this case hints almost subliminally at the experience to come.

    The ordinary fish dinners of varying species are served in meager portions and are exactly that, ordinary. The fish and sides alike are bland and, while generally inoffensive to the hungry, are the bare minimum of what constitutes a seafood dinner.

    The fish of the beer-battered fish and chips, on the other hand, are a few fillets of flavorless cod buried within mounds of oily batter with a powerfully alcoholic taste, though it is by no means intoxicating. This could be considered somewhat unfortunate for the establishment, as it leaves even the hungriest guest lucid enough to recognize the fish as unappetizing after one piece at most.

    For seafood in the same price range, but with the quality to back it up, Cameron’s Seafood is a much better choice. Although most of McGrath’s menu is not repulsive, taking into account its unfounded apparent opinion of itself and its prices’ reflection thereof, I can give it only two and a half stars out of five.

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